Level (48" minimum)
A long level is non-negotiable. Cabinets installed even slightly out of plumb will cause doors to drift open or closed. Invest in a quality 4–6 foot level.
CALL US OR CLICK ON SHOP NOW
Los Angeles: (310) 819-8449
San Diego: (760) 744-2901
Fresno: (559) 276-5652
Bakersfield: (661) 664-5735
Installation Guide
The Complete Kitchen Cabinet Installation Guide
From measuring your first wall to hanging the final door — everything you need to install kitchen cabinets with confidence. Expert guidance from the Apex team.
Why Proper Cabinet Installation Matters
Kitchen cabinets are one of the most visible — and most used — features in your home. A precise installation ensures your cabinets operate smoothly, look professionally finished, and last for decades without sagging, warping, or misalignment.
Whether you're a homeowner tackling a weekend renovation or a contractor managing a full kitchen buildout, the fundamentals are the same: careful planning, accurate measurements, and working with quality materials from the start.
At Apex Granite Outlet, our design team works with homeowners and contractors across California every day. This guide reflects what we've learned from thousands of completed kitchens — from simple cabinet swaps to full custom buildouts.
What You'll Need
Tools & Materials for Cabinet Installation
Stud Finder
Cabinets must be anchored into wall studs. An electronic stud finder locates studs accurately through drywall. Mark all studs before you begin hanging.
Drill & Driver Set
A cordless drill with a Phillips-head bit, countersink bit, and long 3" screws for stud fastening. Cabinet installation requires significant driving power.
Measuring Tape & Pencil
Measure twice, drill once. Use a long tape (25') for full wall runs. Mark stud locations, reference lines, and cabinet positions clearly in pencil.
Cabinet Clamps
Face-frame clamps (or bar clamps) hold adjacent cabinets flush while you drill pilot holes and drive joining screws. Essential for a seamless run.
Shims
No floor is perfectly level. Tapered cedar shims allow you to level base cabinets on uneven floors and will be hidden by your toe kick once installation is complete.
Cabinet Screws (3")
Use coarse-thread 3" cabinet screws — not drywall screws — to fasten cabinets into studs. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent face frame splitting.
Chalk Line & Square
A chalk line snaps perfectly level reference lines across entire walls in seconds. A framing square confirms corners are true before you commit to a layout.
Step-by-Step Process
How to Install Kitchen Cabinets
Plan Your Layout & Locate Wall Studs
Begin by drawing a scaled floor plan of your kitchen. Mark the locations of windows, doors, plumbing, and electrical outlets — these all constrain where cabinets can go. Transfer your plan onto the wall in pencil, marking cabinet edges clearly.
Use an electronic stud finder to locate every stud in the installation area. Standard stud spacing is 16" on center. Mark each stud with a light pencil line from floor to ceiling — you'll reference these marks throughout the entire installation.
Pro Tip: Take photos of the walls before closing them up or hanging anything. Knowing stud and utility locations is invaluable for future renovations or repairs.
Establish Your Reference Lines
Find the highest point of the floor using your level. From this high point, measure up 34.5" and draw a level line around the entire kitchen — this is your base cabinet reference line. Everything hangs from this.
Next, measure up from your base cabinet line to determine your upper cabinet line. If using standard 18" clearance above countertops, mark a line at 54" from the floor (34.5" base + 18" counter clearance + 1.5" countertop thickness). This is where your upper cabinet bottoms will sit.
Pro Tip: A chalk line is faster and more accurate than a pencil when drawing long reference lines across full walls. Snap both your upper and lower reference lines before lifting a single cabinet.
Install Upper (Wall) Cabinets First
This is non-negotiable: always hang upper cabinets before base cabinets. Working over installed base cabinets is awkward and risks damaging them. Temporarily remove lower cabinet boxes from the work area.
Build a simple ledger board from a straight 2x4 and screw it temporarily to the wall along your upper cabinet reference line. This supports cabinet weight while you drill and fasten, freeing your hands. Start from a corner and work outward. For each cabinet: hold it against the wall on the ledger, ensure it's plumb, drill pilot holes into studs through the hanging rail at the top back of the cabinet, and drive 3" screws.
Before moving to the next cabinet, clamp adjacent boxes together with face-frame clamps, drill pilot holes through the face frames, and join with 1.25" screws. This creates a single, rigid run.
Pro Tip: Two people make this step dramatically easier. One holds and adjusts the cabinet; the other drills and drives. If working solo, a cabinet lift or even a stack of cardboard boxes can serve as a makeshift ledger support.
Install Base Cabinets
Start with corner base cabinets if your layout has them, then work outward toward doors or appliance gaps. Place your first base cabinet in position and check for level front-to-back and side-to-side. Use shims under the cabinet on uneven floors — never force a cabinet into a level position by tightening screws unevenly, as this can rack the box.
Once level, drill through the hanging rail (or nailer strip at the top back of the cabinet) into the wall studs. Use 3" screws. Clamp adjacent base cabinets together and join through face frames just as you did for the uppers. Check that all cabinet fronts are flush before permanently fastening.
Pro Tip: Mark the shim positions before shimming — it's easy to forget where you've placed them. Excess shim length can be scored and snapped off flush with the cabinet after all base cabinets are installed.
Check Alignment & Secure the Run
With all cabinet boxes in place — uppers and bases — step back and visually inspect the entire installation. Check that all face frames are flush across the full run. Use a long straightedge to confirm. Any box that's slightly proud of its neighbor can be adjusted by loosening, shimming, and re-tightening before the countertop goes on.
Confirm that upper cabinets are plumb vertically. European hinges allow significant door adjustment post-installation, but the boxes themselves must be true. Re-check all stud screws for tightness — a run of 10+ cabinets with 2–3 fasteners each must all be fully seated.
Pro Tip: This step is your last easy chance to make corrections. Once countertops and appliances are in, reworking cabinet alignment becomes significantly more difficult. Take the time here.
Hang Doors & Install Hardware
Most modern kitchen cabinets use European (concealed) hinges, which offer three-way adjustment: left-right, up-down, and depth. Hang all doors before adjusting any of them. Once all doors are on, use the adjustment screws to get every door perfectly aligned with its neighbors — consistent reveal (the gap between door and face frame) is the mark of a professional installation.
Drawer boxes typically slide onto undermount or side-mount glides. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for clip-in or screw-mount configurations. Test each drawer for smooth operation. Install pulls and knobs using a hardware jig for perfectly consistent placement across all doors and drawers.
Pro Tip: A hardware installation jig (available at any home center) ensures every pull is placed at exactly the same position on every door and drawer. This is one of those details that separates a professional-looking kitchen from a DIY one.
Add Finishing Touches: Trim, Toe Kicks & Fillers
Crown molding bridges the gap between upper cabinets and the ceiling for a built-in look. Light rail molding on the bottom of upper cabinets hides under-cabinet lighting. Toe kicks — the recessed base panels — cover the shimmed legs and structural base of your base cabinets. Filler strips close any gaps between cabinets and walls or between cabinets and appliances.
These finishing elements are what transform a cabinet installation from a functional job into a finished kitchen. Measure, cut, and nail or glue each piece carefully. Caulk the joint where upper cabinets meet the wall for a seamless, painted appearance.
Pro Tip: If you're adding crown molding, practice the compound miter cuts on scrap pieces first. Crown molding is installed at a spring angle and requires specific saw settings that differ from standard trim cuts.
Expert Insights
Pro Tips From Our Installation Team
Always Use a Ledger Board
Screw a perfectly level 2x4 ledger to the wall at your upper cabinet bottom line. Rest your cabinets on it while you fasten. Remove it after all uppers are hung. This one tool saves hours and eliminates holding accidents.
Never Skip Pilot Holes
Driving screws without pilot holes into cabinet face frames will split the wood — especially on painted or finish-grade frames. Always pre-drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than your screw diameter before driving any joining screws.
Order 10% Extra Material
Always order approximately 10% more cabinet components, filler strips, and trim than your precise measurements call for. Cuts go wrong, pieces arrive damaged, and having material on hand prevents costly project delays.
Let Cabinets Acclimate
Wood and plywood cabinet boxes should acclimate to your home's temperature and humidity for 24–48 hours before installation. This prevents expansion or contraction after mounting that can rack boxes or warp door alignment.
Document as You Go
Take photos at every stage: stud locations, rough-in plumbing and electrical, shim positions, and cabinet runs before doors are installed. These photos are invaluable for future work, appliance servicing, or resale documentation.
Plan Countertops Simultaneously
Cabinet installation and countertop templating go hand in hand. Visit our showroom to select both at once — our team can advise on overhangs, sink cutouts, and material thickness that affect your finished cabinet height.
What to Avoid
6 Common Cabinet Installation Mistakes
Not Finding Studs Before Drilling
Cabinets fastened only to drywall will fail under load. Always locate and fasten into studs. Every cabinet should hit at minimum two studs.
Installing Bases Before Uppers
Installing base cabinets first forces you to lean over them to hang uppers — risking injury, damage to new cabinets, and poor fastening angles.
Skipping the Reference Line
Without a level reference line, each cabinet is leveled in isolation — and small errors compound across a long run, creating a visibly wavy cabinet top.
Forgetting to Plan for Appliances
Refrigerator, dishwasher, and range openings need precise clearances. Measure all appliances before finalizing your cabinet layout — not after.
Over-tightening Screws on Unlevel Floors
Forcing a base cabinet level by over-tightening on one side racks the box out of square. Always shim first, fasten second.
Buying Cabinets Without Seeing Them First
Online photos don't capture finish quality, door construction, or box depth accurately. Visit a showroom to assess quality before committing to a full kitchen order.
Shop at Apex
Cabinet Styles Available at Our California Showrooms
RTA Cabinets
Ready-to-Assemble cabinets offer the best value for budget-conscious projects without sacrificing quality. Ships flat, assembles fast.
Shop RTA →Pre-Assembled Cabinets
Fully assembled and ready to hang or set. Ideal for contractors and homeowners who want to install immediately upon delivery.
Shop Assembled →Shaker Style Cabinets
The most popular American kitchen style. Clean recessed panels, square edges, and timeless versatility from traditional to modern design.
Shop Shaker →
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to remove old cabinets before installing new ones?
Yes, in virtually all cases existing cabinets should be fully removed before installing new ones. This ensures you can properly address the wall surface (repair drywall, locate studs), achieve a clean level baseline, and verify that plumbing and electrical rough-ins are in the correct position for your new layout. Installing over old cabinets risks hidden structural issues and makes leveling extremely difficult.
What height should upper kitchen cabinets be installed?
Standard upper cabinet installation places the bottom of the cabinet approximately 18" above the finished countertop surface, which works out to roughly 54" from the floor (assuming a 36" base cabinet height plus 1.5" countertop thickness, plus 18" clearance). For kitchens with 9-foot or taller ceilings, many designers raise this to 20–24" to allow for taller upper cabinets and a more expansive feel.
Should I install upper or lower cabinets first?
Always install upper (wall) cabinets first — without exception. Installing base cabinets first forces you to reach over them to access the wall, which is physically awkward, prevents proper drilling angles, and risks scratching or denting your new base cabinets. Working top-to-bottom is the universal professional standard.
Can I install kitchen cabinets myself or should I hire a contractor?
DIY cabinet installation is very achievable for homeowners with basic carpentry comfort, the right tools, and a helper for hanging upper cabinets. Simple galley or one-wall kitchens are particularly DIY-friendly. Complex L-shapes, U-shapes, islands, or kitchens with severely unlevel floors or ceilings benefit from professional installation. Our showroom team can connect you with experienced local contractors if needed.
Where can I buy quality kitchen cabinets in California?
Apex Granite Outlet carries an extensive in-stock selection of kitchen cabinets — RTA, pre-assembled, shaker, raised-panel, and more — at five California showroom locations in Los Angeles (Carson), San Diego (San Marcos), Fresno, Clovis, and Bakersfield. Visit us to see full kitchen displays, speak with our design team, and take home samples. No appointment necessary.
Ready to Start?
See Our Cabinets In Person Before You Buy
Our California showrooms carry hundreds of door styles, finishes, and cabinet configurations on full kitchen displays. Bring your measurements and our design team will help you plan your layout at no charge.
- Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.